#1 We are the w-report
Wunderkammer Berlin & beyond
Introducing the Ws behind the w-report (Part One)
We had heard about each other before we met. Antje Wewer was (and still is) a force of nature in (Berlin) town, typically found dancing or laughing at the center of every fun party and opening. Antje knew Gisela Williams as the American expat writer in Berlin whose byline often popped up when she would do a Google search on a new place she was curious about, like Tblisi, Georgia. Gisela always seemed to be everywhere first. When the two of us finally connected in person, Gisela’s congenial American side was somewhat intimidated by Antje, who always serves up her honest, spiky opinion without attempting to sugar coat it, but she soon understood that it was always delivered with an equally sharp sense of humor and a bright smile. In each other they immediately recognized like-minded professionals who are curious explorers of the world. They always go the extra mile and, in their own way, never hesitate to tell it like they see it.
For 25 years Gisela and Antje have been writing about travel and culture. Gisela for publications like the New York Times T Magazine, Travel + Leisure and Harpers Bazaar, and Antje for magazines like NEON, Süddeutsche Zeitung Magazin, Harper’s Bazaar or The Weekender. Currently she’s Editor at Large at SALON Magazine.
WUNDERKAMMER BERLIN
No one knows the city of Berlin (it’s where we live) like the w-report.
We love Berlin because it’s still a city flush with creative possibilities, sown with unexpected and experimental projects and places. It’s populated by countless world class contemporary artists, from Olafur Eliasson to Grada Kilomba and Alicja Kwade. But…a lot of these projects are hidden and not so easy to find. Berlin is not easy to navigate, especially for first timers. Partly because it’s HUGE, nine times the size of Paris; every neighborhood is its own universe. Also because , if you’ve ever stood in line in Berghain, the city’s most legendary nightclub, you know that whatever passes for cool in other cities-Instagramming the hell out of something, wearing head to toe designer, flashing cash— does not cut it in Berlin. So, even if we could, we wouldn’t help you get into Berghain, but we will share some of our sparkliest insider tips that will make your visit here shine.
THE W-REPORT’S FAVORITE SPACES + PROJECTS
Berlin's art world yoga scene
The image above-by the Berlin-based photographer Felix Bruggemann— is from a recent story of Gisela’s for T Magazine about the underground Kundalini yoga scene popping up in Berlin, specifically in the glamorous, art-filled offices of Blau International, the cult art magazine collected by the likes of Patti Smith and Gerhard Richter. Every Thursday at 6PM there is a 90-minute long yoga class, open to friends of friends.
Tropez Tropez
How much do we love this project, conceived by the art curator Nele Heinevetter? Heinevetter started this initiative at a public outdoor swimming pool in Wedding called Sommerbad Humboldthain in 2017 to bring contemporary art to more Berliners, including the underserved children in the neighborhood. This summer there will be a slew of exhibitions and performances; check the Tropez Tropez site for updates. Even if you skip the swim and just hit the Kiosk, you won’t be disappointed. Some people swear they sell the best fries in town. Visiting a FREIBAD (public swimming pool) in Berlin, especially one of the nicer ones, can be a tricky —and crowded —business. In addition to its cultural street cred, and crispy fries, the Humboldthain Pool is tucked away in a lush leafy park, boasts 50meter lanes as well as a big curvy slide that itself resembles an art installation. Be smart and go in the morning or get a voucher card and secure yourself a quick entry so you can skip the queue.
SEE THESE SHOWS BEFORE THEY CLOSE
If we were to recommend three exhibitions to check out right now they would be the Julius von Bismarck show at the Berlinische Galerie, the Indigo Waves and other Stories show at the Gropius Bau, one of the city’s most interesting and eclectic museums (Plus it boasts the city’s best lunch spot: Beba) and the Cao Fei “Duatopia” show at Sprüth Magers. (Tip: Hidden in a small courtyard park behind the gallery is a fantastic playground)
MARYAM KEYHANI’S NEW HAT SHOP
If Salvador Dali was a milliner he would be the lovely Maryam Keyhani. We love her joyful, surreal hats that are in the shapes of giant Meringues or dollops of whipped cream. Her headwear is all about sparking joy. We love that you can still find designers that refuse to be motivated by commercial gain here in Berlin. And her new shop! It’s not even a shop in the traditional sense of the word. She opens whenever she feels like it (or by appointment) usually during the day on Sunday, and keeps it open as long as it attracts a curious group of people, which it never fails to do. If you not following Maryam on Instagram, sign up, it’s never boring.
ART IN THE WILD
There are more and more reasons to head out to the leafy green edges of Berlin and the most exciting, in our opinion, are all the great new art-related projects being planted there, from the art park at Schlossgut Schwante in Brandenburg to the thought-provoking exhibitions at the Haus am Waldsee in the suburban neighborhood of Zehlendorf.
The Wehrmuehle in Biesenthal, a community-driven contemporary art museum that opened already a couple of years ago and hosts the annual Art Biesenthal exhibition is shaking it up in a traditionally conservative village in Brandenburg, located about an hour north of Berlin. Listen to Antje’s Podcast episode, if you wanna know more about the people behind the project: OUR HOUSE #17 If you are into Glamping: The Tiny House by Sigurd Larsen is located in the garden of the Wehrmuehle and can be booked via raus.life
An even more pioneering art festival in Brandenburg is the now 29-year-old Rohkunstbau which this year takes place from June 18-October 29th at Schloss Altdöbern in a village that is almost a two hour drive south of Berlin.
W-REPORT SAYS STAY HERE
There has been a welcome flurry of new hotel openings in our hometown. We chose our favorite four.
GW SAYS: It’s all about the art, the food and the people at the Château Royal. One of my favorite chefs in the city is Victoria Eliasdóttir who is heading up the kitchen here, called Dóttir. I’ve been following her for some time, and she makes vegetable friendly dishes that have the most delicious textures and flavors. (I admit I also love her beef tartare and fries served with bright green lovage spiked mayo dip). The owners asked more than 50 Berlin-affiliated artists, many of them friends, to create or install a work for the rooms. I especially love Alicja Kwade’s ghost sculpture that greets guests in front of the hotel.
AW SAYS: I’m literally nuts about their Bar-Nuts. Seriously though. The Lobby Bar is a great spot to meet up for a drink and get some people watching done at the same time. Or you go upstairs to the rooftop for fresh pizza & natural wines (daily from 6-10pm). If you’re traveling with a friend (you do not wanna share a double with) book the twin bed room with curtains by John Bock. Good mood guaranteed.
GW SAYS: This is such a central location, right in the center of the Mitte action yet somehow removed on a quiet street in a beautiful historic brick building. The food is delicious but a bit too fussily plated for my taste. What I really liked was the eclectic design of the rooms. Apparently they will be opening a modern gym and a Japanese bakery soon which should make the lobby and public spaces more lively.
AW SAYS: I like the big lobby and the historical building and the rooms are definitely spacious. Book one with a view to the park. Location is king here. And as Gisela already said: bring on the Japanese Bakery!
GW SAYS: The location is a bit far away from all of Berlin’s action — at the far end of Kantstrasse in Charlottenburg —but the building itself is kind of magical : like a lost castle hidden behind the facade of an old courthouse. Of course the history of the space is not quite so romantic as it was at one point a women’s prison but somehow the architects Grüntuch Ernst have done a good job of exercising the bad juju and yet, still acknowledging its history. The restaurant Lovis, overseen by chef Sophia Rudolph, is worth a visit on its own.
AW SAYS: I must day I love this special only in Berlin location and the minimal rooms which are nonetheless warmly designed. Plus the Wilmina has a rooftop with a view and a pool and a very nice Sauna (you’ll appreciate one, if you visit in Winter). And right around the corner you’ll find the most charming Königsberger Marzipan Shop (since 1949) for a great foodie souvenir.
AW: The Hoxton is the new kid on the hotel block in Charlottenburg, right off Ku’damm. The vibe is young and uncomplicated and the rooms are all very comfortable with an easy going English countryside twist. The lobby sports a big bar and is a good hangout, if you wanna work with your Laptop during the day. And as the Hoxton Group always does, they brought something new into town with them: House of Tandoor. A contemporary Indian Restaurant and Teahouse.
GW: I am always looking for decent Indian in Berlin and the House of Tandoor is a much welcome addition to the city’s restaurant scene. Try the spicy Mango Salad, the delicious Pistachio Lassi and def something from the Tandoor Oven. (The Naan flatbreads are stretched by hand and cooked against the wall of the tandoor at high temperature). They make a really good masala chai.
THE W-REPORT SAYS EAT (& DRINK) HERE
Trio in Mitte (GW’s write up about it for T Magazine)
Don’t talk to me until my Matcha kicks in, says AW, often. For the best in Berlin head to Mitte and to Matchasome, the first dedicated Matcha Café in Berlin, right on Torstrasse, one of Berlin’s most vibrant streets. It doesn’t offer much sun, but it offers a variety of Matcha drinks, soft serve and fresh waffles - all made with organic ceremonial grade Matcha, harvested in Kagoshima, Japan.
Berlin on Fire. The new restaurants cooking on open fire, as written about by Gisela for the T List.
One more just-opened hot spot: ITA BISTRO in Prenzlauer Berg, that cooks up Latin American-inspired dishes, many of them in a bread oven.
Recently rediscovered with great outdoor seating: Briefmarken Weine on Karl-Marx-Allee: „Grandi Vini, Piccola Cucina“. After Dessert: A film at the close by Kino International.
Material on Schönhauser Allee: amazing baked goods & coffee by day, natural wines by night.
Mindful Drinking Club. Yes, it’s possible to have a sexy Summer Drink without alcohol (claims AW). This little shop has a literally mindful curated selection of non-alcoholics and the C-roast pear non-alcoholic comes very close to Champagne.
Our favorite ice cream places: Hokey Pokey (if you don’t mind 2,40 euros for a scoop), Süssfein (Mitte & Prenzlauer Berg) and Jones in the West (Schöneberg).
Looking for seasonal Catering? The Herrlich dining Ladies are cooking up an elevated storm in Neukölln and their dishes cater to both eyes and taste buds.
THE W MIX: News you can Use
ODE TO MOTHERS. We are mothers (AW has one and GW has three) and both love and struggle with what that means. These two recent articles (one written by our friend and collegue Maria Shollenbarger) about mothers and motherhood touched and provoked us.
WE LOVE GLUTEN. In the piece that GW wrote for T Magazine— A Meal in Which Bread Was the Starter, the Main and the Dessert-she featured the Berlin-based baker and shaker, Laurel Kratochvila, who founded (along with her husband) the very cool bookstore Shakespeare and Sons near Warschauer Strasse and Fine Bagels, a bakery in the bookshop that makes the best bagels in Berlin. She also just opened a great little natural wine bar in Neukolln called Le Balto .
MALLORCA ALERT. With so many travelers headed to Mallorca this summer, it is highly recommended to reserve a table at restaurants far in advance. Make sure to book Patiki Beach, a lively restaurant right on the water in Port Soller, even though it’s most beloved chef, Grace Berrow, has been poached by the new hotel (also necessary to reserve far in advance) Hotel Corazon. (GW just wrote about this crazy cool new hotel for T Magazine). If you wanna know more, AW worked on a whole special Salon Mallorca issue - you can order it online. Only in German.
MUSIC TO OUR EARS. Leslie Feist is touring right now (we bought tickets to her concert in Berlin) and we can recommend this Podcast Espisode with the one and only Feist talking about her LA life (in English): Und was machst Du so am Wochenende?
STEALING BEAUTY. La Pensione in Panzano, Chianti (great design value for money! tested by AW )
WE LOVE PRINT. The new SALON summer issue features a Rome city guide by Margherita & Gerardo of Giuliva Heritage. Grab the issue for the beautiful pictures by Debora Mittelstaedt and When in Rome . . . make a reservation at Rocco, grab a Pizza at Antico Forno Roscioli and head to Palazzo Fassi for Gelato.
UP AND AWAY. If you wanna zoom out in Berlin, book a beauty treatment at the recently opened MDC LOFT which is one of four outlets run by Beauty Boss Melanie dal Canton. It resides on the top floor apartment overlooking the treetops of the charming Kollwitzplatz. AW fav practitioner is called Sharlene (magic hands!) and she recommends The Glow.