#12 w-report does Venice
Secret hacks and tips from our favorite Venice Insiders + The Biennale!
For some time, both of us Ws were skeptical of Venice. I know that might sound absurd now, but there were several decades when it seemed that the city had been hijacked by cruise ships and mass tourism. (Needless to say the Ws hate being pushed around by crowds using selfie sticks and getting charged 15 Euros for a bad Cappuccino at Piazza San Marco). But for some time the city and its residents and defenders have been fighting back— with success. An example of this ongoing battle is the recent decision to charge day trippers to Venice a 5 euro entrance fee with the aim off keeping the number of day tourists in check. It’s created controversy, but the truth is that most day trippers don’t leave much money behind and yet they add to the city’s wear and tear.
I avoided Venice for some time but then a decade ago I headed there to report a story for Food & Wine magazine about the cookbook writer Skye McAlpine, which took place in Venice, her childhood home. The premise was: how do you avoid the crowds? I went in the off season, the late fall; it was a bit chilly but still beautiful and almost empty of tourists. Skye taught me that there are so many other islands in the Lagoon to discover beyond Venice itself. We went to Torcello, to Murano to Burano. It was a revelation.
For Antje, her awakening also came with an assignment. For SALON magazine she spent several days off season with the Arrivabene sisters, Viola (“Lola”) and Vera, who grew up in Venice in the Palazzo Papadopoli. The two taught her how to navigate Venice like a true local.
For both of us Ws, these experiences opened a hidden door. Suddenly, we entered the real Venice, a magical, opulent floating city, against all odds, built on poles in mud. A place where there are stories to be discovered on every corner and behind every door, and a treasure within every ornate Gothic marble palazzo and Baroque church. Where time and movement is still dictated by the ebb and flow of tides and you can only get around by foot or by boat.
To celebrate the 60th Biennale, we share the tricks we have learned and the places we have discovered over the last decade. It’s possible to sink or float in Venice; to accomplish the latter you need to know where to go and how and when to get there. That’s true for most cities, but in Venice, knowledge and good intel is key.
HACK #1 FROM THE ARRIVABENE SISTERS
TAKE A WALK IN THEIR SHOES (AW)
It’s like a modern day fairy tale: the Arrivabene sisters family home is the 16th century Palazzo Papadopoli, one of the most opulent palaces in Venice, with its frescoed ceilings and golden stucco decorations. It was leased and renovated by the Aman hotel group and now the family lives on the top floor in their eclectic apartment full of art and antiques. The “Arriva” gang, as their family is called by the locals, includes Count Giberto “Gibi” Arrivabene Valenti Gonzaga (check out his Murano Glass) ; his wife Bianca ( who works for Christie's Italy ); and five children: Viola (“Lola”), Vera (“Bibi”), Mafalda, Maddalena and Leonardo. A decade ago Lola and Vera founded the brand Vibi Venezia, which produces everyone’s favorite stylish modern version of the furlane, the quintessential Venetian slipper.
CAFFÈ: Never at Piazza San Marco. We love Rizzardini. They serve Del Doge, the best Venetian café ever and it’s around the corner from our home - we’ve been going since we are kids. There are no seats, but in Italy you drink your Espresso standing up anyway.
CRUISING: If you want the Gondolieri-feeling without paying for it, just do a crossing with the Traghetto, the gondola ferry, it costs 2 euros per person (locals pay less, fair enough!) and you can ride from one side to the other.
RESTAURANT: We love the family-owned Trattoria Antiche Carampane. It’s a three-minute walk from our home (Rio Terà delle Carampane 1911). Order Tagliolini alla granseola with tomatoes, prawns and chili or a small type of crab, the “moleche”, is the house specialty. They are delicately deep-fried - and are the best in town.
APERITIVO: At Bar Naranzaria! It belongs to our cousins. It has a large terrace by the water between the church of San Giacometto and Campo dell'Erbaria and a selection of organic wines at reasonable prices and the excellent cicchetti, snacks that are served as an aperitif in Venice.
SHOPPING: Emilio Ceccato's store is located directly on the Rialto Bridge, has existed since 1902 and is, to be clear, a family business. “Emilio is an old friend of our father's and an official supplier to the Venice Gondoliers' Association. His shop sells the gondoliers' striped shirts and sweaters in all variations. The classic, handmade straw hats are also great - one costs around 140 euros.”
A CLASSIC: Harry's Bar at Cipriani is no insider tip, but it’s loved by “turiste” and locals alike. Everyone in the city knows the Cipriani family and patron Arrigo is still in charge at the age of 93. If you want to dine, book a table on the second floor; the lower area is recommended for cappuccinos, drinks and snacks. We love the grilled ham and cheese sandwich, for example. If you want a Bellini, please drink it in the bar where it was invented in 1948. It’s worth the 18 Euros.
ALIMENTARI: Drogheria Màscari is the oldest and most beautiful of them all. The selection of Italian delicacies is amazing and sometimes Sonia, the founder, is still in the store even though her sons have long since taken over. You can find everything from olive oil and mustard to dried mushrooms and grappa. Bibi loves liquorice, Lola torrone (nougat). And as a souvenir, they recommend the Venetian Baicoli cookies, which are served with coffee and packaged in decorative tin boxes.
BEST VIEW: Take the vaporetto to the island of San Giorgio Maggiore. From the bell tower (there is an elevator!) you have a fantastic view over Venice and the famous Borges labyrinth with 3,000 boxwood plants covering 2,300 square meters.
HOTEL: The AMAN VENICE, si claro! And here’s the hack: the Arva Restaurant is open to non-residents so book a table for the Sunday Brunch and enjoy what must be the most beautiful dining room with views over the Canale Grande.
HACK #2 FROM SKYE MCALPINE
ADVENTURES IN THE LAGOON (GW)
TORCELLO: Before Venice there was Torcello, an island about six miles north of Venice (a 90-minute ride on the public ferry) hidden in the middle of the Venetian archipelago. One of the first settlements created by mainlanders escaping from barbarian raids in the 5th century, at one time the small island had a population of thousands and was one of the most powerful trading centers of the region. Around the 12th century there was a devastating malaria outbreak and Torcello’s remaining residents moved to Venice. These days Torcello has a population of about two dozen, including the parish priest.
WHERE TO EAT: Locanda Cipriani, a two-story inn and dining room painted canary yellow and located at the end of a canal. Unlike the legendary Harry Bar and Cipriani restaurant chain, which was founded by Giuseppe Cipriani in the early 1900s, the Locanda Cipriani is still completely owned by the family. “It really feels like you’ve stepped back 40 years into a more glamorous time,” describes Skye. “It’s a place to book a table in the garden under the shady pergola and have long lingering lunches that turn into dinners.” NOTE: THE LOCANDA IS CLOSED UNTIL THE EARLY FALL FOR RENOVATIONS.
WHAT TO ORDER: The "Cipriani-style" fish soup and Skye’s favorite signature dish: a tagliolini gratin with smoked ham and béchamel sauce, a decadent, addictive dish.
MURANO: Skye’s parents used to collect Murano glass, such as vases from the renowned Venini company, known for working with world famous artists and architects, so as a child she went to the island often. Now she herself is designing and producing glassware for her Tavola brand. Although Murano is probably one of the most visited of all the Venetian islands, “It’s pretty seasonal,” describes Skye. “On weekends and in the summer, Murano is packed but otherwise it’s quite slow.”Ai Frati is one of Skye’s favorite restaurants on the island. “It’s an old family run restaurant with terrace seating right on the canal,” she explains. “In the warmer months you can sit there and watch the boats go by.”
WHAT TO ORDER: The spaghetti with bottarga (salted and cured fish roe)
BURANO: Burano is famous for its traditional hand crafted lace and linen, as well as for Bussola cookies, typically shaped like an O or S. The canal is lined with small dollhouse-like buildings all painted the most brilliant shades of bright pink, lilac, sky blue, and pumpkin orange. On its large main square is Skye’s favorite specialty lace and linen shop: Martina Vidal
MAZZORBO: On this tiny isle there’s a beautiful hotel and restaurant called Venissa that is surrounded by a small beautiful vineyard that produces a golden Venetian vintage— a favorite of Skye’s— which is made from revived indigenous Dorona grapes. But for a traditional Venetian meal she prefers a small simple family restaurant called Trattoria Maddalena. “They don’t set out to do something new here but in the end what they do is incredible unique. A place like this, oblivious to world trends, is much more chic and appealing to me.”
WHAT TO ORDER: The pasta with fresh clams and the ragu made with local wild duck.
SWEET TREAT ON THE MAIN ISLAND: Possibly just as satisfying as dinner and a Bellini at Harry’s is a big slice of Vanilla Meringue cake on the terrace of Harry's Dolci overlooking the Giudecca Canal.
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