#17 w-report Lisbon, A Love Story +Surf's Up in Ericeira
Insider Emmy Urban moved to Lisbon ten years ago and has never stopped exploring. She knows how to shop, avoid the crowds and where to find the best ice cream (at her her own Geladaria Chantilly)
When Emmy Urban and her family moved from Berlin to slower-paced Lisbon ten years ago, they were still pioneers of sorts. Since then, a tidal wave of digital nomads and other adventurers has flooded into Lisbon to take advantage of the historic port city’s mild climate and serious quality of life. (It’s got a beach: Caparica!). Summer here though is high season and can be packed with visitors. That means standing in line for a table at Dear Breakfast (overrated anyhow, Emmy knows better) and trams crowded like sardine tins. Emmy, who speaks fluent Portuguese, is a great lover of walking and talking. So she took my friend, the photographer Brita Sönnichsen and I on a stroll through the city and showed me her favorite spots while sandwich-ing in some Lisbon wisdom (park outside the city center and use Uber, always order a soup, don’t tip more than 10% ) At the end of our tour she let me try ALL the tropical flavors at her Geladaria Chantilly. More on this later.
ON THE TRAIL OF EMMY
Start your morning as Emmy often does, at Do Beco with a breakfast of Champions. This artisanal bakery and brunch place is located on the tranquil street Rua Passos Manuel. (You can even park you car here). No reservations and no laptops, but you’ll get excellent coffee and delicious egg dishes. From there head towards A Vida Portuguesa, the legendary concept store whose interior manages to surpass the beauty of the building’s tiled exterior. (I’m talking of course about the location in Intendente—there is also a new one that just opened in one of Lisbon’s oldest libraries on Rua Nova do Almada). You’ll find incredibly well curated traditional products - all made in Portugal - from Couto toothpaste to Benamôr handcream (do also visit their cute flagship store in Principe Real), as well as kitchen utensils, notebooks, chocolate and tins. It’s the perfect place to find a special souvenir for well deserving friends and family back home. For foodie friends Emmy recommends the Sardinhas em Tomate Picante' - for a quick and delicious pasta- as well as 'Salmão (salmon) em Aceite or ao Natural, best with toasted bread. You’ll also find Bordalo Pinheiro ceramics, known for quirky flower, plants and animal motifs. Emmy likes to gift pieces of the 'Nuts' series. From this quiet square, which is bordered by both beautifully renovated façades and a few empty buildings (a typical Lisbon mix), you can take a detour to Rua do Benformoso, a lively street full of Indian, Pakistani and Chinese restaurants and stores. Or you continue straight from Largo do Intendente a few meters uphill through Rua Nova do Desterro to Depozito, an old foundry turned into a beautiful handicraft shop. From there, through the Rua do Saco, via the Largo do Mastro up a few steps to the Campo dos Mártires da Pátria: a small park with free-range chickens and ducks and a monument to the folk doctor Sousa Martins. Well worth seeing; sick people and relatives still make the pilgrimages to this day. Continue along the picturesque avenue Rua Júlio de Andrade to the small park 'Jardim do Torel': great views with a breeze. Walk over to the Elevador do Lavra (28E), the oldest oldest funicular in the city, which leads down into the middle of the stately Avenida da Liberdade. The never crowded station is located next to Torel Palace Lisbon, the luxury boutique hotel Emmy dreams of escaping to, when she needs a break from making ice cream, an oasis with two pools, a beautiful interior and a cute Hammam & Spa. Number 11 is a small Bungalow with its own jacuzzi (850 Euro a night). For an even bigger splurge: The Four Seasons Ritz, an iconic Modernist building and address since 1959. It’s worth a visit to the lobby alone and there’s an outdoor running track overlooking Lisbon on the roof. For a sneak peek: make a reservation for the Afternoon Tea.
MORE LISBON DIAMONDS (according to Emmy)
SHOPPING: LA PAZ (menswear inspired by the Atlantic), Wetani-More than Fashion (eclectic Vintage meets home decor), +351 (cotton heaven) , 'Companhia Portugueza do Chá' (amazing tea in decorative tins), Mustique (colorful & funky fashion), MiniMall (small Concept store with exclusive Labels & Vintage carefully selected by Emmy’s friend Jenni McFarlane), Cecile*M - (handmade Ceramics, you can shop & peek into her studio).
CAFÉ: High ceilings, lots of light, a visit to São is an instant mood booster (their rich french pastries do the rest). Make sure to peek into Loja São next door,  Lisbon’s most exclusive grocery store. You’ll also find the plant-based detox kit from Biocol Labs here. Antje swears by it.
LUNCH: Cacué is run by a charismatic young chef Jose Saudade e Silva (& his mom) who puts a twist to local favorites like Bacalhau à Brás (a comforting codfish dish, with scrambled eggs, onions and fries or Cabidela (chicken blood rice with vinegar). Sit on the sidewalk at the bright red vinyl tables.
DINNER: Tasca Zebras is a small joint with slightly modernized Portuguese cuisine. No meat, just seafood. Order Pica Pau do Mar to share. The homemade Shrimp Sauce is everything.
BAR: Black Sheep. Small joint, always packed. The crew here loves to consult on your choice of wine. Buy a bottle, borrow some glasses and hang out on Praça Flores.
POP UP: Twice a year the ceramic curator Felipa Almeida organizes pop-ups in her studio where she challenges artists to create works inspired by a specific theme. It’s so worth a visit but if you can’t sign up for her newsletter.
SPORTS: If you’re into Iyengar, this is your place. If you are in town longer, consider becoming a member at Club VII, located across from the Ritz, a posh Tennis Club with a gym and a XL-Pool.
& LISBON DIAMONDS (according to Antje)
ICE CREAM: GELADARIA CHANTILLY (Rua Doutor António Cândido 3b). With a bit of luck, Emmy herself will be standing behind the counter and can advise you on what to choose. When the little 30s bungalow right next to her apartment was available, she made a dream come true and last summer, turned it into her kind of Club Tropicana where she sells her homemade ice cream. Everything is so good. You can taste the homemade quality and a small portion is 2,20 Euro. I’ve never been into banana ice cream but now I am! Try Emmy’s Affogato with Coconut ice.
The area is called Avenida Novas and while it’s not right in the city centre, it’s a great hood to explore. Before or after your ice cream pit stop you should visit Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian. It’s a park, museum, concert hall, an architectural gem of a cultural institution and only a 10 minute walk away. Right next to it is the breezy viewpoint Parque Eduardo VII and Jardim Amália Rodrigues. It’s where expats like to walk their dogs and mingle. The Quiosque (selling drinks & snacks) is not chic, but well located next to a big playground. And don’t miss Estufa Fria, certainly one of the most unusual botanical gardens, located in a former quarry, great exotic plants, rarely visited.
DINNER 1: Galeto (Avenida da República 14). For me this place is less about the food and more about its movie set interior with 120 counter seats and sexy atmosphere. It’s open 20 hours a day, seven days a week, 364 days a year. Order bife à Galeto (beef with fried egg, ham and pickles) or a burger served with chips and creamed spinach. You have to be there to understand the magic.
DINNER 2: Magnolia. During the day this cute corner café turns into a lively brasserie in the evening. Right on Praça das Flores. Do believe the hype. Cute crowd, delicious menu, no big groups. Make a reservation.
Dinner 3: Palacio do Grilo. Come here once for the amazing location and the drama! It’s in a sexy shabby palazzo with a lot of charm. The menu is just good enough; this is more of a theatre than a restaurant. Be aware that there will be performance art happening while you eat. It’s not too distracting, I promise.
HOTEL DISCOVERY: Marqi. I stayed one night in Colares outside Lisbon on my way to Ericeira and can only recommend this small & cool boutique hotel (8 rooms only) run by a group of Danish friends. Yep, of course they have good taste, they’re Danish. What else do you expect? The Garden Suite has a 70’s vibe and it’s very close to the pool, so I was a very happy camper. (Double Rooms start at 170 Euro).
DAYTRIP: Ericeira. This quaint little fisherman village turned surf destination is a 4o minute drive from Lisbon. I come every summer. My family’s beach house is very close to Praia Ribera D’Ilhas, the beach is renowned for its amazing waves and sits in a valley between high cliffs and overlooks. Book a surf lesson at my friend Joana Andrade’s surf School Progress. (Joana is by the way the only female big wave surfer in Portugal and an excellent coach). The documentary about her is called Big vs Small. Have lunch or dinner at the outstanding restaurant Costa Fria. I adore the interior and food, it gives big Atlantic ocean vibes all over the place. Whatever you do don’t complain about the music—the owner & Chef Tommi likes it loud. Stroll through the town, shop at Saints at Sea and Maquic Quiver and have one for the road at Winebar Ippolito & Maciste. Drive back to Lisbon or crash a night at the stylishly laidback Aethos Boutique Hotel (Doubles start at 250 Euro) or the very sleek, modernist-styled Immerso (Doubles start at 380 Euro, breakfast included). Right now I’m working on a feature about Ericeira’s creative community together with local photographer John Brömstrup. Coming up soon in The Weekender Magazine!
Well well ! I moved 20 years ago... in a sabbatical leave. Lisbon was asleep in time. A very bohemian city that I used to love more. At this time, coming from a Parisian life, my family and friends were sure I will come back at the end of the summer. But no, I felt in love with all the slow life, the locals, the none expensive life, the crazy apartment I rented for nothing in Santos with 12 rooms and a view over the Tagus river. Impossible nowadays... I feel that the city is losing its authenticity. For this reason, I created www.luzeditions.com a genuine brand based on Portuguese crafts, you surely saw my products at Vida Portuguesa or Depozito !
And actually, last week-end I discovered the Gelataria Chantilly that is a great spot for great ice creams !! And the owner is lovely. Long life to Chantilly.