#2 the w-report loves Summer
Hot Tips to Cool Down: From Oslo to Rome
THE HEAT IS ON (GW)
Much of the talk in Europe this summer, in regards to travel, has been related to the how the climate crisis is heating up and influencing the Mediterranean’s high season. At the same time there has been much complaining—both by locals and travelers—of over tourism happening throughout the region.
Even before all these concerning issues arose (and silly TikToks joking—complaining— about the lack of ice cubes in Europe began to go viral), we have always believed that the Med was much more appealing in the late spring or fall. We love the off-season here at the W-Report because we don’t like crowds or overpriced hotels; our idea of a nightmare is Mykonos in late July.
SO…if you are planning to go to the Med, think about traveling to destinations like Greece or Sicily and the Amalfi Coast in May or the early fall. And if you are planning to travel to Europe next summer, consider heading north to Scandinavia or to the Alps. That way you’ll stay cool and avoid the crowds. That might mean swimming in lakes and rivers (and pools) as opposed to the sea, but trust us, most likely you’ll end up really enjoying those cool freshwater swims. (We love that you can swim in the middle of cities like Stockholm or Copenhagen).
For that reason, we are featuring a few of Gisela’s favorite Scandinavian and alpine properties that are still under the radar but really special. These places are not just hotels; they are unique worlds that their owners spent years dreaming up and evolving over time.
WANAS, SWEDEN
GW SAYS: If I had a top five hotel list, Wanas would definitely be on it. I’ve been there twice: once with my family and once with a friend to report a story. (I wrote about the art park for T Magazine) It’s the kind of enchanted place that sparks wonder in everyone from jaded art collectors to young children. When I took my kids, they wandered around for two days, sometimes even on their own, excitedly discovering installations and sculptures like they were on a treasure hunt. At one point my eldest announced Wanas was better than Walt Disney World. I couldn’t have agreed more.
THE BASICS: Wanas is a white step-gabled Renaissance-style castle, dairy farm, art park and small hotel in the remote rural region of Skåne in southern Sweden, about a 90-minute drive from Malmo, that has been owned and managed by the Wachtmeister family for eight generations. But it was Marika -- who married into the family in the 80s—that opened up the estate to the public and evolved it into what it is now: a world class art destination that is helping to redefine what a contemporary art institution can be. In 1987 Marika began to invite artists, many of them women, like Ann Hamilton and Marina Abramović, to create site specific works on or near the castle’s park. Today there are 70 world-class, mostly site-specific works installed throughout the estate, some in the cow field (Maya Lin’s landwork, the “Eleven Minute Line”) and others hidden in the woods, like Jenny Holzer’s “Wanas Wall” her truisms carved in small script into a stone wall from the 1700s. In one of the 18th-century farm out buildings is a performance studio and well-curated shop selling local ceramics and children’s books by artists. In another, built of local tilled stones, is a chic 11-room hotel decorated with mid-century vintage furniture and art from the family collection, that was designed and overseen by Marika’s architect daughter-in-law Kristina. The restaurant is exceptional, offering a small menu of beautifully prepared dishes sourced from the region. The fresh milk used to make the soft serve ice cream is literally piped in directly from the estate’s organic dairy cows.
SOMMERRO, NORWAY
GW SAYS: I spent 48 hours at Sommerro a few months ago and never left the hotel once, not only because I was completely enamoured by its opulent Art-Deco inspired interiors, but also because I was so busy meeting people, enjoying the restaurants (there are seven!), and exploring Vestkantbadet, the property’s expansive wellness area. (I was actually there researching a story about new thermal spas for Harpers Bazaar US). That is of course a shame because Oslo is really having a moment (Norway has been investing its offshore oil wealth into the city’s cultural scene; the port district of Bjørvika is heaving with futuristic architecture and lively restaurants). I admit this only to make the point that Sommerro is so beautifully designed and attracts such a diverse mix of locals, that it’s as much of lively city meeting place as it is a hotel.
THE BASICS: Just opened last year, the property was a landmark building from the 1930’s which has been pristinely restored, with incalculable resources, to its former Art Deco glory. Now a grand hotel with 231 rooms and suites, a mix of great restaurants (the Old World Ekspedisjonshallen restaurant is buzzing all day and night long and boasts an epic wall fresco by late artist Per Krohg), an elegant cinema with 100 velvet seats and one of the largest wellness retreats in the region complete with one of the last remaining historic public baths opulent mosaics, it is without exaggeration, the most exceptional urban hotel in Scandinavia. (Second only to the cultish Ett Hem in Stockholm, which is much smaller). More recently the Sommerro opened a neighboring standalone villa with 11 rooms, called Villa Inkognito, that I wrote about for the T List.
CASTELL, SWITZERLAND
GW SAYS: Like Wanas, Castell is the rare hotel that appeals to both art and design lovers and well-travelled families with kids. There’s a very cool, very discreet, children’s club that focuses on arts and crafts, a playroom designed by artist Olivia Etter and outside, a quirky playground and a James Turrell Skyspace. (In winter there is an ice rink). I stayed here for a few days one winter with my son who was four years old at the time, to report two features: a story about the art scene in the Engadine and another on the artist Not Vital and even now, four years later, he still speaks fondly about this trip. My visit coincided with an exceptional cultural event called the Engadine Art Talks which was founded by Cristina Bechtler, who along with her husband Ruedi owns the Castell, and the renowned curator Hans Ulrich Obrist.
THE BASICS: The Castell is located in the fashionable village of Zuoz in the Engadine and is as much a world class contemporary private museum as it is an extraordinary place to stay. The owners of the property are the Swiss art collectors Ruedi and Cristina Bechtler. The hallways and public spaces of the hotel are lined with just a portion of the Bechtler’s impressive and eclectic contemporary art collection that includes a sculpture of birds carrying a pair of lederhosen from the renowned German conceptual artist Carsten Holler, photographs from the Swiss artist duo Fischli / Weiss, who are regular guests at the hotel, and a neon sign that reads “It’s Freezing in Here” from the British artist David Shrigley, much of it highly conceptual and subversively humorous. The glossy fire engine red bar was designed by the artist Pipilotti Rist and architect Gabrielle Hächler; if one looked closely it was possible to spot tiny video projections played on several liquor bottles. The color-filled hammam was designed by the notable Dutch architects UNStudio. Rates are around 300 euros per night for a double room.
SIDE TRIP: While in the area, be sure to sign up for a tour of Not Vital’s magic palace, the 11th-century Tarasp Castle that he has transformed into a fantastical cultural destination.
HOW TO SURVIVE ROME (AW)
For several reasons I had to travel to Rome this summer and days before my trip I became incredibly wound up with concern that the heatwave would ruin it, as the city is best to explored by foot. My friend O.A. who is officially German but Italian deep in his soul, as well as a proud house owner in Tuscany, reassured me that Italian summers have ALWAYS been HOT and that there’s nothing wrong with heat, you just have to know how to handle it. With that advice, he took me on a walking tour through the Eternal City. He was right: well planned stops beat the heat. On average our days in Rome were hitting 38 DEGREES. Here is how we cooled things down:
35 DEGREES. Il Caffè at the new Bulgari Hotel Roma is a great meeting point, it occupies an illustrious address at Piazza Augusto Imperatore in the heart of the Campo Marzio district. Plus: It has a spacious outdoor area right beneath the monumental porticos and is decorated with large planters (shade!). You don’t have to blow your budget. Just order an Espresso for 4 Euros or the “Colazione All’Italiana” (an elaborate breakfast, italiano-style) from the property’s 3-star Chef Niko Romito for 45 Euro.
30 DEGREES. The Bulgari SPA will be open for non Hotel-Guests and has the grand tradition of a Roman bath and a 20-meter-long pool decorated with beautiful mosaics by Bisazza, reminiscent of the motifs seen in the celebrated Baths of Caracalla. Eight columns clad in ribbed arabesque marble rise up in the centre of the pool. Yep, it’s pretty impressive, but also a great way to stay cool.
28 DEGREES. Do a walking tour, put on sunscreen and a hat, but don’t expect to get into places like the Pantheon. Save those kind of mobbed places for the shoulder season and have a Granita al caffè instead at the nearby Tazza D’Oro. More than a simple coffee bar, this is a torrefazione – meaning they roast their own coffee beans since 1946 to create blends that are unique.
25 DEGREES. When traveling with kids do take any of the tourist bus tours from Roma Termini. (Just make sure they give you at least one free ticket, they all do). It’s a fun thing I’d definitely do again. You have a roof over your head, an audio guide included, there’s a nice breeze and you don’t have to walk. Pretty convenient when the heat is on. And yes, you are a Tourist so don’t be afraid to occasionally embrace touristy things.
23 DEGREES. Don’t stress about making lunch reservations during the high season. The trick is to not obsess about getting the perfect outdoor table (it’s cooler to sit indoors anyhow) and walk in around 2pm, after the first round of lunch guests have disappeared. Just be quick about making your order as most restaurants close at 3pm. If you are lucky enough to get a table at Giggetto in Rome’s Jewish quarter —a well-worn institution but much loved by my friend O.A. —make sure to order the Carciofi alla Giudea (deep fried artichokes). I loved the old school vibe and and I will never forget my visit because I accidentally ate fried (& very delicious!) lamb’s brain.
20 DEGREES. It may sound crazy, but we rented electric scooters (we rode double and the police men couldn’t care less) and zipped around town. The traffic seems scary from the outside, but you’ll get in the flow. The Italians are generous drivers; they are relaxed and in general, stay COOL.
18 DEGREES. Gelato, gelato and more gelato! Our favorite was Giolitti, an elegant Gelateria that offers 100 flavors. My vote for the most refreshing (and unique) scoop is Watermelon with slivers of dark chocolate.
17 DEGREES. Do take a tour of the Catacombe di San Calliste and you’ll be underground (and cooling off in 17°C) for at least one hour while exploring the endless corridors stretching for miles underground.
WHEN IN ROME, STAY HERE
I found Palazzo Velabro (new opening and a Member of Design Hotels) to be a great choice. It’s within walking distance to the Colosseum (book an e-ticket via coopculture.it and choose the last spot). It’s in an 18th-century mansion with only seven rooms and all of they are decorated in brown, blue and beige colors, which has a calming and cooling effect. And if it’s still too hot for you, there’s a cinema in the basement and an outdoor terrace with views of the Roman Forum. Rates for two adults in August start at 340 euros.
An oldie but goldie is the Hoxton Rome, with an excellent price-performance ratio for a 4-star boutique hotel and its location in Salario is walking distance from the Villa Borghese and its beautiful park (lots of shade!). If you want to visit the Villa do book weeks in advance. I missed out on this experience. If you’re too lazy to leave the Hox, they have a beautiful outdoor terrace for Aperitivo which is even frequented by local Romans. In August, rates start at 225 euros. (269 euros with breakfast)
ESCAPE TO THE BEACH
Do escape to the seaside for two or three nights, especially if the heat is really getting on your nerves. If you want to be amongst Italians, I’ll recommend Sabaudia and the slightly tacky Oasi di Kufra Hotel. Make sure you book a room with sea view. (There is a two night minimum in high season. The rate starts at 514 euros for two nights including breakfast). If they don’t have one, drop the idea immediately. If you wanna splash out, La Posta Veccia is your hotel. Forty minutes away from Rome, it’s worth every penny (starts at 599 euros a night for two). The property sits right on the Palo Laziale coast and lives up to its reputation: incredible rooms; amazing service; the best bathroom amenities; and a veranda you’ll never wanna leave again (the breeze!). It’s Jean Paul Getty’s former mansion and feels right out of a Slim Aarons photo shoot.
W IS FOR WELLNESS. Special retreats coming up this fall.
SEPTEMBER 14-17: Remember I, Remember We in the Italian Alps (AW)
The lovely Maria Schönhofer was my Pandemic Yoga buddy. I will be forever grateful to her for these private one-to-one studio lessons. Last year she moved with her whole family ( husband, 2 kids, 1 dog) to Piedmont, Italy and has continued to keep up the yoga teaching while also working as a communication consultant. She will be hosting an incredible few days of yoga, hiking, bathing in the river, harvesting and cooking together.
Where? Val Susa, Italian Alps, close to the boarder to France. The Mountain you will look upon is called Mt Chaberton.
How Much? 750 Euro shared double room at Agriturismo Barbagust, including all practices, local organic food & beverages. (If you book via the w-report you’ll still get the early bird booking price of 650 Euros).
OCTOBER 15-21: YOGAHIKES X SWIMSTORIES on Mallorca (AW )
I love yoga and I love to swim so this is my dream retreat. I’ve been practicing with the Jivamukti yoga teacher Kristin Rübesamen many times over the years in Berlin. She’s very experienced and teaches at Three Bones Yoga and these days, also hosts a summer class on the Chateau Royal Rooftop Friday mornings (free for Hotel guests).
Where? Casa Wald, Mallorca
How Much? Starts at EUR 2,163 for single occupancy for 6 nights.
NOVEMBER 13-20: TO RETREAT in Morocco (GW)
I was lucky enough to be a guinea pig on Philomena Schurer Merckoll’s debut To Retreat in Morocco last fall. The incredibly charming and generous hostess of the very special Riad Mena guesthouse in Marrakech, Schurer Merckoll’s other passion is to connect people to skilled healers and wellness practitioners. The retreat took place on a remote and absolutely magical farm house designed and partly owned by my favorite architects Studio KO in the Agafay desert. We practiced Kundalini yoga twice a day and received at least one daily massage. For me the best part was the food (delicious fresh Mediterranean and Moroccan dishes made mostly from produce from the farm) and the fact that there was no phone connection or WIFI. The next retreat she will be hosting in November will include a few very plugged in days in Marrakech (Philomena is one of the most connected people I know in the city) and then a few days off the grid practicing yoga at the farmhouse.
Where? Riad Mena, Marrakech and a special farmhouse in the Agafay Desert.
How Much? 7 nights all included from 3250 euros.
SPOTLIGHT ON: Berlin-based illustrator and designer Sarah Illenberger (AW)
In Berlin’s theatre world there is no company as celebrated as the SCHAUBÜHNE, an institution that is regularly invited around the world to put on guest performances. So I was crazy proud of my talented friend, Sarah Illenberger, when I heard she had been tapped to created the Schaubühne's new poster series for the 2023/24 season, kicking off in September. Sarah got herself inspired by play quotations from the repertoire and used them to develop different images for the campaign. Her images will be on display in the Season’s booklet, will be placarded all over Berlin and - merch alert - the posters are for sale too. Meanwhile check out her fabulous online shop for more pictures and objects. One of my many favs is her paperweight fortune cookie! If you’re interested in visiting Sarah’s studio in Berlin-Wedding, feel free to reach out. #wreportstudiovisit
THE W MIX: News you can Use
•PULL THE WOOL FROM YOUR EYES. A fascinating exhibition about the history and ecology of wool production at the National Museum in Oslo by the brilliant Formafantasma design duo.
•AN ART HAPPENING WORTH TRAVELING FOR. The Italian art organization Italics, founded by a group of more than 60 galleries, launched this unique art event in 2021 on the island of Procida, and then the following year in Monopoli in Pulgia. This year from September 7-10 PANORAMA will take place in the small city of L’Aquila in the wild region of Abruzzo, and is curated by Cristiana Perrella.
•A MEETING OF MAKERS. A few years ago Gisela wrote about the Irish designer Joseph Walsh for Elle Decor, who produces bespoke shelves, tables and chairs that are like sculptures of sinuous curves hand-carved from wood. His studio is on an old family farm estate near Cork; he often hosts a really special makers gathering that is named Making In, which will take place on September 2.
•REQUIRED READING. We both read the anti-travel piece in the New Yorker and absolutely hated it, (the writer is welcome to sign up for the w-report so that we can steer her in the right direction) because it was more contrary than true and didn’t actually discuss travel that is worth the carbon footprint. (Gisela recommends this recent, well thought out piece which touches on this and also suggests it’s worth going back into the NY Times archives to read this great, surprising story about Rick Steves).
•LISBON 911. If you are headed to Lisbon, make sure to book a table at the immersive and theatrical Restaurant Palacio do Grilo. The location is breathtaking and it’s just off the beaten Tram-28-track. Visit the beautiful Calouste Gulbenkian Museum and reward yourself with homemade ice cream at the recently opened Geladaria Cottinelli (Rua doutor António Cãndido 3b). It’s the cutest ice cream parlour set in an architectural gem and run by our friend Emmy Urban.
•LISTEN HERE. Check out the new season of Our House, the podcast Antje hosts together with Salon’s Editor in Chief Anne Petersen which is kicking off after the summer break with Episode #20: a conversation with the Sterrekopje Healing Farm founders Nicole & Fleur. Dropping on the 8/24/23, available via Apple or Spotify or any other platform you might use.
•SUMMER READS. Antje recommends: The Young Man by Annie Ernaux (short & sweet!), The Flamethrowers by Rachel Kushner and for a given occasion Blue Skies by T.C.Boyle. Gisela recommends: Great Circle by Maggie Shipstead and the incredible trilogy about Alexander the Great by the remarkable writer Mary Renault. (I love her historical fiction! Someone please make a TV series from her books).
•LUNCH IS OUR FAVORITE MEAL. Especially in the summer, and the best person to inspire you for great new quick lunch recipes is the new cookbook, NOON, launching this September, photographed and written by our friend Meike Peters, the Berlin-based founder of the blog and podcast Eat in My Kitchen who won a prestigious James Beard award for her first cookbook 365.
Introducing the Ws behind the w-report (Part Two)
The Ws have always loved to travel, as far back as we can both remember. Gisela was eight when she first traveled by plane alone, wearing one of those big plastic envelopes around her neck to visit her grandmother in the north of Germany; in her early teens she’d fly on her own in the summers to Bermuda to spend time with her cousins. In college her anthropology professor advised her to do a semester abroad in Bali, Indonesia. She lived with a Balinese family in a village near Ubud, learned Indonesian and some Balinese, and dove deep into the island’s unique animistic Hinduism-its beliefs and rituals. It changed her life and how she sees everything.
Antje’s first love in high school was a guy from South Africa; it sparked a lifelong infatuation with Africa and beyond. She took on a stint as an Aupair in Upstate New York and traveled allover the States. Her career in newspapers started in Berlin with the Welt am Sonntag and brought her to Munich via Neon Magazine and she started working for the prestigious Süddeutsche Zeitung. For many years, way before the days of Instagram, she wrote features, for a variety of publications, about emerging actors and artists. (Film is her second love after travel). That beat just happened to involve spending time in iconic hotels around Europe. She spent a day with Zach Galifianakis at Le Meurice in Paris, met Keanu Reeves in Berlin’s Hotel de Rome and had a G&T with Dame Helen Mirren at the Lanesborough in London. For NEON Magazine she wrote about swimming from one Greek island to the next with a company called Swimtrek (highly recommended!). After working as a Senior Editor for Harper’s Bazaar Germany and Andy Warhol’s Interview Magazine, in 2014 she signed on to an Editor at Large role at SALON magazine where she produces and writes travel stories around the globe.
Although she’s has her finger on the pulse of international culture and travel ever since she worked at Interview Magazine and Allure in New York City in the 90’s, one of the first true travel features Gisela wrote was a piece for the New York Times about Essaouira, Morocco in 2005. A year later, also for the New York Times, she wrote about searching out pagan rituals and revived ancient villages in Abruzzo, Italy as well as about a new trend she was seeing in Europe that she dubbed the “temporary restaurant”. (This was before the term “pop-up” was a thing). She continues to love digging up creative cultural trends and trying to travel back in time.
IF YOU HAVE MADE IT THIS FAR DEAR READER, PLEASE SHARE WITH US ANY FEEDBACK YOU MIGHT HAVE. WE ARE EXPERIMENTING AND PLAYING WITH THE FORMAT AND WOULD BE GRATEFUL TO HEAR WHAT YOU THINK OR WHAT YOU WANT MORE OF. ALSO: WE WERE SO THRILLED THAT SEVERAL PEOPLE ALREADY SIGNED ON AS PAID SUBSCRIBERS. THANK YOU!! THE PRESSURE IS ON! PLEASE NOTE THAT WE WILL BE OFFERING OUR PAID SUBSCRIBERS TRIP PLANNING ADVICE. WANT TO ORGANIZE A TRIP WITH FRIENDS TO MARRAKECH? MEET SOME CREATIVES IN BERLIN? WE CAN HELP YOU WITH THAT. THANK YOU FOR YOUR SUPPORT! ANTJE & GISELA