#20 w-report KNOWS WHY EVERYONE IS GOING TO EGYPT (PART ONE)
Adventures on the Nile and the world's most beautiful Oasis
SAILING BACK IN TIME (GW)
There was a moment on the second day of my sailing journey along the Nile that the wind died, the two sails of our elegant dahabiya slumped, empty, and the river’s strong current pushed us slowly backwards. The sensation filled me with the most extraordinary sense of calm, partly because it was a huge relief to finally be doing the opposite of rushing forwards, and also because I was already hoping for this trip on the Nile to never end. The unhurried pace of travel dictated by water and wind, passing by small family farms and ancient sites carved into limestone cliffs, was for me, the most luxurious travel assignment I had experienced in some time, allowing me the much needed space to think and dream. The French shoe designer Christian Louboutin, who has owned a house and private dahabiya in Luxor for years, had shared with me before my trip: “The idea of drifting on the Nile inspires the imagination. It represents a journey of desire and beauty that moves at a different, slower pace.” Yes, so true.
All I want to do lately is to travel to places that make me feel like I’ve entered a portal to the past, preferably to an era when nature was God and time was read by sun and shadows. A slow trip on the Nile is one of those journeys; the w-report recommends three of the best options.
The Set Nefru (which I wrote about for the T List when it launched) must be the most elegant boat on the Nile today: a five-bedroom historic dahabiya available to be charter through the Al Moudira resort and Beyond Egypt. Originally built 90 years ago for a member of the Egyptian royal family, the current owners had a team of fifty craftsmen meticulously restore it—for more than two years— with reclaimed wood and laser-cut marble. The interiors were also returned to its former glory with vintage French colonial and bespoke furniture, Limoges porcelain tableware, antique silver cutlery, and the finest Egyptian bed linens from Malaika (More on this beautiful Egyptian brand later). In the process they discovered a hidden Art Deco painting on the saloon bulkhead. Three day minimum. Good to know: the master bedroom is quite a bit larger than the other four cabins—and has a beautiful private deck—so you might have to fight it out with the other guests. Price upon request.
This stylish operation —all the dahabiyas have red-and-white striped sails—has been successfully run for more than twenty years by three friends: the free-spirited Enrique, originally from Mexico, the French interior designer Eleanor and Memdouh, an Egyptian boat builder. I wrote about the experience for Harpers Bazaar two years ago and still dream about taking over one of the larger boats (max capacity 24 people). I loved the friendly young crew as well as the outings: there are walks through villages to the desert as well as the expected stops at the Temple of Horus. To break it down I would say: good quality, especially for the price, good energy and fun people. On my trip I met an artist mother and her teenage daughter and still keep in touch with them. Starts at 2750 euros per room for 5 nights.
No one I know has cruised the Nile more than my friend the artist Louis Barthelemy. He has tried several different boats including the Nour Il Nil; recently he spent six days on the Sudan, a beautifully restored 19th-century steamship with 18 cabins and 6 suites that Agatha Christie apparently cruised on herself in the 1930s. (It is the only member of Thomas Cook & Son’s original fleet of Nile steamers that still operates on the Nile). He really enjoyed it and when I asked him to send me his thoughts, he wrote: “The Steam Ship Sudan provides an authentic and historical experience with the added comfort of intimate cabins with functional clean bathrooms. The cuisine is notably superior to that of Nour El Nil, complemented by a bar service and more in-depth historical tours. It’s a great choice for couples and Egyptology lovers.” Starts at about $2000 euros per cabin for 5 nights.
PILGRIMAGE: THE OASIS OF SIWA
In ancient times, Siwa---today an oasis town in Egypt close to Libya, surrounded by emerald green palm groves, psychedelic blue salt lakes and vast dunes of of sand---was one of the most sacred pilgrimage sites in the western world. It was home to the Oracle of Ammon, one of the most important Gods of ancient Egypt, ruler of sun and air. When Alexander the Great made his famous pilgrimage there in 332 BC, it took him and his troops weeks of trekking across miles and miles of desert –through perilous sand storms--to reach the oasis. It was said that in the last few days of their dangerous journey they were guided by divine intervention, in the form of a pair of ravens or snakes. When Alexander finally reached the temple and conferred with the oracle, it was revealed to him that he was the son of Ammon, confirming his divine status. After Siwa, he was never the same.
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