#9 w-report goes on a West Coast Roadtrip
ANTJE RINGS IN THE NEW YEAR AT A HISTORIC LODGE ON THE WASHINGTON STATE COASTLINE, REVISITS THE CITY OF ANGELS AND HAS A DRINK WITH ACTOR UDO KIER IN PALM SPRINGS.
In this latest feature we celebrate the theme of German-American friendship, which is, of course, a chapter in the w-report origin story. Gisela is a New England girl and was born and raised in the town of Litchfield, Connecticut and I grew up in Wolfsburg, Lower Saxony, (famous for being the HQ of VW). When we joined forces to create the w-report, we saw our different cultural backgrounds and provenances as an asset. It sometimes leads to different opinions (and also a lot of laughs). So naturally Gisela was curious to hear how I perceived her homeland after I returned from a recent trip to the West Coast. As always, I’ve got a lot to say (don’t forget, I’m the one with the very direct German opinion) so let’s get into my thoughts on traveling to Americanah, which by the way, is a place I’ve been to a lot (although this was my first time in Portland, Oregon). I add to my observations-of course - a combination of hotel and restaurant recommendations.
For some time, I had a crush on NYC (who hasn’t?) due to the fact that I spent a year in Manhattan as an au pair in the late 90s. I’d spend my weekends rollerblading in Central Park, watching Hal Hartley movies at the Angelika Film Center, sneaking into The Comedy Cellar (I wasn’t 21) and spending hours at The Strand, the bookstore and around Washington Square. I trusted It-Girl Chloë Sevigny’s decisions and tastes before I met and interviewed her in person about The Last Days of Disco. I didn’t manage to befriend Chloë, but many years later living in Berlin I had another girl crush: filmmaker Nora Colie. We became friends. After almost 10 years in Berlin Nora had to move back to Portland Oregon to take care of her aging parents. So when the invitation to a New Year's Eve party at Sou’wester Lodge near Astoria fluttered in, I didn't think twice. Give me a reason to travel and I will. My many visits to LA had kind of informed my opinions about the West Coast, so I was surprised to encounter a total different mind set: The people I have met in the Pacific Northwest, and Portland in particular are deeply passionate, a little offbeat and always brimming with new ideas. I can assure you that the “Portlandia” typecast of Portland’s coffee-drinking, bike-riding, Lumberjack-wearing hipster is spot on.
My friend Nora & her creative community care about the environment, are dedicated activists, won’t shop at Whole Foods (it belongs to Jeff Bezos, duh) and would never recommend a good hotel owned by a Trump supporter (PS: don’t stay at Hotel DeLuxe and Woodlark Hotel)
Nora showed me her PDX, the house she grew up in (historic Irvington) and we had a stiff Whisky Sour at her sister Amy’s place. There we discussed the integrity of Nike’s Phil Knight and newer conservatives who moved to Portland because they heard it was cool, but are now too scared to go downtown to visit Powell’s bookstore because they are afraid of running into the homeless and Fentanyl addicts. (NOTE: I might have had a lucky day, but I didn’t see anyone strung out on Fentanyl when in DT.)
SOME THINGS TO DO IN AND AROUND PDX THAT ARE APPROVED BY NORA (THE LOCAL) AND HIGHLY RECOMMENDED BY ME (THE VISITOR):
1 MAKE THIS ONE RESERVATION. KANN, overseen by chef Gregory Gourdet, won the 2023 James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant in the United States, and it’s well deserved. Haitian cuisine meets Pacific Northwest bounty. How to make a Reservation: They release one calendar month of reservations on the 1st of each month at 12pm PDT the month prior. Reservations fill up quickly! For spontaneous visits: Have a drink & snack at Sousòl, Kann’s basement bar. (They asked me - I’m 49 - for my ID! Loved it).
2 PDX INSTITUTION. HUBER’S in Downtown. The oldest café in town is famous for its flaming Spanish coffee and period décor. I was told that people apparently come here for the turkey sandwich; I would say come for the atmosphere and sit at the bar.
3 NEXT LEVEL PINBALL. Literally. A thing to do on a rainy day and be warned, there are many of those days in PDX (even in AIR - the sports drama about the origin of the Air Jordan with Ben Affleck playing Phil Knight - it rains the whole time). $22 Entry. 475 pinball and arcades on free play. Plus vintage and new video games, and decorating the walls, you’ll spot every lunch box, action figure and Barbie seemingly ever made.
4 THREE IN ONE. Loved this place as it caters to the three different food tastes in my family: There’s Snappy’s for the best old school sandwiches in town (Bruno), Kinboshi Ramen (for me) and Nong’s Thai (Frank). Address: 609 SE Ankeny St, Portland, OR 97214
5 ONE GREAT WALK. Mount Tabor! Sits on an extinct volcano and offers amazing forest walks and a reservoir. Of course Nora belongs to the committee that is fighting to turn the reservoir into a public pool.
6 Shopping. Three family favorites: Frank shopped at the Pendleton Outlet , Bruno loves Back to the Basket on fabulous Hawthorne Street (full of excellent and affordable vintage shops which, by far, top those in LA) and I fell in love with Powell’s Books. It’s bigger and friendlier than Strand’s.
HINT: Everyone knows someone who works for NIKE in PDX and can easily sign you up for a visit to the gigantic Nike Employee Store. Great Bargain Shopping (40 percent off). This last tip might not be approved by my friend Nora - SORRY! She’s also not likely to approve of the landing of a new Soho House in Portland, located in the Troy Laundry Building in Central Eastside which will open its doors this May.
WHERE TO STAY
KEX Hotel. The original Kex is a youth hostel in Reykjavík so Euros may not like it because it will feel too much like home. Maybe? But I guess that's why Nora loves it. It’s across the river on the Eastside. Deluxe King Ensuite $216 (includes taxes & fees!) and they offer great family rooms with bunk beds.
Hoxton Hotel. I liked the vibe of the new “Hox” in Downtown (a 5 Min walk from Powell’s). 119 hotel rooms that range in size, all with rich walnut paneling, mid-century touches, artwork curated by local gallerist, Upfor, and ceramics by Clay Factor. A Snug room (smallest category) is around $199.
WEEKEND GETAWAY: ASTORIA. This iconic Oregon coast town has an old-timey sailor feel and it's where the mighty Columbia River meets the Pacific Ocean. It’s also famous for being the site of the classic 1985 film The Goonies. If you have seen the movie: Do visit and stop before or after at The Bowpicker for fish and chips. You’ll get firm chunks of Albacore tuna lightly battered and fried (bring cash!) - this is coming from a person who eats never fried things. And take a picture at the Custard King next door.
Stay at the Commodore Hotel - they have an excellent coffee shop with a Nordic-friendly BRODER STRAND cafe on the ground floor - or cross the historic Astoria-Megler Bridge and drive on to the SOU’WESTER LODGE in Seaview, Washington. We took over the whole Lodge to swing into 2024 - it offers Vintage Travel Trailers, Cabins and Suites in a beautifully restored historic lodge. You can borrow record players, vinyls and VCR TVs for your room (their movie selection is a trip down memory lane, everything from Ferris Buller’s Day off to the Ice Storm). It’s situated just a minutes walk from the beach and they have a Garden Spa with a Finnish Sauna. ( Even with the cool PDX crew I had to wear a bathing suit AND they dimmed the light. Haha.) Do visit Oysterville (Montauk vibe) and eat Clam Chowder at Willapa Oysters.
FOOTNOTE. Flying out of PDX with Alaska Air to LAX I suddenly could read all the Portlandia signs: the iconic green, blue and purple carpet in the terminal, the mini Pendleton Shop, the big selection of Lumberjack Shirts and there is a mini movie theater that shows film shorts, mostly made in Oregon. Best time to visit the City of Roses without the rain: May and June.
GOODBYE NORTHWESTERNERS & HELLO LALA LAND
Best Entry: I like to touchdown in Santa Monica when coming to LA. It’s close to the airport and cycling from Santa Monica Pier to Venice Beach Skatepark is a sacred ritual for me. My Hack: Stay at a Hotel where they offer free bikes! An old favorite is the Proper Santa Monica (Room Rates are around $750) which has a pool on the rooftop and an excellent lobby to hang & work designed by Kelly Wearstler (ignore the Proper in DTLA, it’s not even half as nice). A new and more affordable entry is the recently opened The Georgian (Room Rates around $550) with it’s Wes Anderson vibes and Art Deco style. They both offer free bikes on the house.
OKAY TO SKIP when in Venice: The overpriced Breakfast at Gjusta. (It used to be fun people watching, now the backyard is filled with Tech Bros and there’s a mandatory 20 Percent service charge, even if you pick up the coffee yourself). But a must if you still land here: Peek into Gold’s Gym across the street and have a look at Arnold Schwarzenegger’s bodybuilding pictures from the 7O’s. Plus: Cool vibes and affordable Merch.
We always stop at my son’s former Kindergarten on Abbot Kinney and take a pic of Bruno in front of the painted walls of Ecole Claire Fontaine. I was sad to hear that the amazing founder, Joëlle Dumas, had passed away. She had a heart of gold and was the unofficial Mayor of Abbot Kinney. These days it’s only window-shopping on the annoyingly commercialized Kinney boulevard. Save your money for the Erewhon market at the very end and spend your (saved) money for a next level picnic at the beach. Warning: it’ll be overwhelming and you’ll get confused between the 22 different Kombuchas and you might even considering buying a Malk smoothie for 20 bucks (hard NO!), but: When in Venice . . . go to town! I love their fresh Kale Salad with spicy Tofu and their Matcha selection.
HEY HOLLYWOOD. I was assigned to research a story about the Revival of Hollywood for MERIAN Magazine and these are my three discoveries:
1 HOW WE ROLL: Say yes to discovering Hollywood by E-Bike - you’ll see and learn so much. Make sure you book Erik, a former radio host who is a great cyclist, storyteller and Master of Life, who actually learned to live on little money in the City of Angels. You can go for $1.25 to DTLA and eat iconic Taquitos with Avocado Sauce at Cielito Lindo on Olvera Street.
2 STORYTIME: We loved that the new Academy Museum of Motion Pictures doesn’t charge for kids. It’s designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano and a four-year-old Harris’s hawk named Spencer has an important job: to fly above the museum and its gleaming glass dome to ward off pigeons that could mark the new landmark with poop. Only in Hollywood.
3 ANGELENO INSTITUTION: Musso & Frank still deliver great Retro-Vibes and a fabulous Shrimp-Cocktail. Come early (5.30pm), sit at the Bar (no reservation needed) and enter via the parking lot through the backdoor (Once- upon-a-Time-Hollywood Feeling). The new Palihotel Hollywood ist just a 15 min walk away on Sunset Blvd, it’s s a good deal (it starts $229 per night) and has a contemporary retro vibe and sits next to iconic In-N-Out Burger (in case you’re still hungry after the your $22 Shrimp-Cocktail).
WEEKEND GETAWAY: OJAI. It’s not even a two hour car ride from hard hustling LA and suddenly you enter a different universe: crystals & incense shopping, time for small talk and Reiki & Yoga everywhere. It’s a vortex of good energy surrounded by the Topatopa and Sulphur mountains and orange farms. Ojai’s “pink moment” is truly magical. This phenomenon describes the fleeting seconds when the setting sun illuminates the Ojai Valley in an otherworldly glow.
STAY HERE: Capri Hotel (recently renovated Motel, very cute Pool and Patio, small shop & retro vibe, starting at $320), and Caravan Outpost (think eleven Airstreams and S’mores by the fire, price from $229).
EAT THIS: Rory’s Place (the so-called “Oyster Sisters” Rory and Meave McAuliffe run this place, which has spread as far as LA), Tacos at Ojai Tortilla House (opens 11am, Lunch only, come early to avoid the queue), The Duchess (it’s a daytime Café and Burmese Cuisine in the evening - I really enjoyed the meal I had here with my Ojai friend Stephanie). Organic Coffee & Beef Bone Broth at Three Birds.
NAMASTE HERE: Light & Space - what a delightful and bright studio space with cacti garden. Looks like an enlightened gas station.
HINT: If you happen to adore the actor Udo Kier as much as I do, I found the perfect bar for you in PALM SPRINGS. The Evening Citizen is dark, not easy to find (access via parking lot, no sign outside) and serves excellent cocktails. I would also recommend this spot if you’re not into Kier. I interviewed him for an upcoming Our House Podcast, as he lives in the most amazing Mid-Century bookhall turned home. If you’re tired of the Ace Hotel & Swim Club, try the very new Life House: Less party, freshly renovated and a great breakfast deal (you buy a coffee and can help yourself to the buffet).
IT’S THAT BERLINALE TIME OF YEAR
W-REPORT INTEL from our friends the producer JANINE JANKOWSKI (of the Academy award-winning “Toni Erdmann”, “Spencer”, Pablo Lorraine’s upcoming “Maria” featuring Angelina Jolie as Maria Callas) and cinematographer FRANK GRIEBE (Run Lola Run, Cloud Atlas, Babylon Berlin).
FRANK’S FILMS TO WATCH: I’m looking forward to see „After Hours“ (1985) by Martin Scorsese again in the new 4k restored Version. Marty will be in town to receive his „Ehrenbären“. Maybe he’ll sneak into the screening as he always sneaks himself into his movies. Recent cameo in "Killers of the Flowermoon“ as a Radio presenter. The Horror movie “Cuckoo” by German director Tilman Singer starring Hunter Schafer from “Euphoria” and the Girls soccer movie “Winners”(Generation Kplus) by Soleen Yusef who was born in Irak and grew up in Berlin-Wedding. I worked as a Director of Photography for Romuald Karmaker’s Documentary „The Invisible Zoo“. We filmed behind the scenes at the Zurich Zoo. Endurance required: The movie is 178 minutes, Swiss German with English subtitles and R-rated. Nothing for the faint hearted.
FRANK’S DINE OUT: Out of tradition - after filming in Zürich we always had dinner at Hiltl – Vegetarian since 1898 - we are going to have dinner at Berlin’s best vegetarian restaurant: Cookies Cream. Nobody wants to eat meat after seeing this movie.
JANINE’S FILMS TO WATCH: I can’t wait to see Mati Diop’s new film „Dahomey“ that is running in the festival competition - I loved her 2019 film Atlantics so much! „The Outrun“ by Nora Fingerscheidt, which runs in Panorama as well, the film premiered in Sundance - I love Nora’s films and the actress Saoirse Ronan is always brilliant. „Andrea gets a divorce“ by Josef Hader with the phenomenal Birgit Minichmayr - I am looking forward to some super dry humor - also in Panorama.
JANINE’S MEETING PLACES: I prefer to meet up at one of my favorite Berlin old school hang outs like Victoria Bar, Der Goldene Hahn or the Paris Bar. During Berlinale there is better than usual people watching. (Also note that while Berlin is still a place where you can often walk into a restaurant and get a table, during Berlinale it’s crucial to reserve a table).