NOTES FROM SPRING BREAK
A secret hotel tip from an exhausted working mom. Hint: it's on a Greek island.
Spoiler alert: That exhausted working mom would be me, dear readers. I love traveling as a family—it’s such a privilege to expose your children to diverse countries, ideas and cultural adventures—but sometimes a vacation needs to be about doing nothing but reading and napping on the beach. That is why for our Easter break my husband I decided to book rooms at one of our all-time favorite family hotels: Ammos, a 33-room beachside hotel near the historic port city of Chania on the island of Crete.
Ultimately the hotel’s extraordinary success at attracting an impressive mix of babies, quirky Europeans and cool creatives is thanks to its owner: Nikos Tsepetis. He started the hotel exactly 30 years ago and spent each year perfecting and improving on everything from his collection of design chairs in the indoor dining room to the comfort food dishes on the menu. Nothing passes by his scrutinizing eye without final approval. Despite his neurotic perfectionism, he is also both kind and incredibly humorous. In his own way he is a curator of people, running the hotel as if it’s his home, his guests are always a compelling cast of characters that include small well-behaved European families and a mix of artists and gallerists. (During our visit this past week the director of Poor Thing was staying there with a group of friends, as was a female photographer for Vogue Poland).
My kids are now older, ages 17, 15 and 10, so they are now considerably more independent, but for younger kids Nikos has employed a babysitter eight hours a day. My kids all loved breakfast (a Laila Gohar and Muller Van Severen-designed “Pigeon Table” displays various delicious baked goods from Nikos’ other enterprise, the ambitious Red Jane bakery designed by his friend the internationally renowned designer Michael Anastassiades), the heated pool and the “kids room” which was decked out with a TV and PlayStation, board games and plenty of toys. (There are thankfully no TVs in the rooms).
Chania and the surrounding area itself also offers much for children and their parents. And Crete is an amazing place to teach your kids about Minoan history. Both Archaeological museums (the one in Chania and Heraklion) are full of mind blowing, inspiring historical objects and information.
For additional tips check out the feature I wrote for FT’s HTSI magazine about the northwest side of the island.
MY KIDS’ REVIEWS OF AMMOS
CASH, age 10: They have a whole kids room and a heated outdoor pool so it was always warm no matter what the weather was outside. And just down the stairs was the beach where my sisters and I could wander on our own looking for sea glass. The kids menu was great—I loved the Greek meatballs—and so was the normal menu. (The chicken gyro was awesome).
PALOMA, age 15: I liked the service—everyone was so welcoming and always smiling. The waiters interacted with us a lot and were funny. I loved how everyone knew Nikos’ dog —a cute Boston Terrier-by name and would say Hi Jonny! whenever he made his rounds. I really liked that we could easily walk on our own to a super market around the corner or to the volleyball courts at the neighboring beach.
COSIMA, age 17: I liked that the hotel is small and everything is so personal which means you get to know the staff pretty well and connect with other guests. When I got bored with the hotel, which wasn’t often, I could just head to Chania (about a ten-minute taxi ride away) and explore. The old city and its ancient port—is incredibly safe to wander around and is so interesting. I really love its layers of historical architecture mixed with fun shops and cafes.
RATE: Rooms start at 160 euros (low season). Breakfast is 20 euros a person (13 euros for children under ten) which includes bread and baked goods from Red Jane and a la carte dishes like Kagianas- eggs with feta, tomatoes and oregano, Spanakopita – the famous Greek spinach pie and the kids’ favorite: a plate of pancakes sandwiching a thick layer of Nutella.
BONUS CHANIA TIP: Do not miss a meal at Maiami, a fun and colorful cafe on the harbor that is also an expression of owner Alexandra Manousakis’ art practice. And go early to Red Jane bakery (a project from Ammos’ owner Nikos) because the delicious sandwiches and baked goods often sell out before 3 or 4.
Love the kids reviews! Very important POV. 😘
So dreamy! I want to go... Loved the kids reviews.